Garage Door Spring Repair & Replacement Costs: What Homeowners Need to Know

If your garage door won’t open, a broken torsion spring is the likely culprit. You can’t repair these springs. You must replace them. But DIY replacement is dangerous because of the springs’ high tension, which can cause serious injury. Even professionals get injured working with these high-tension springs.

How much does it cost?

• DIY torsion spring replacement costs $80 to $200 for parts.
• Professional torsion spring replacement typically costs $250 to $450, including labor and parts.

Garage door springs wear out over time, usually lasting 10,000 cycles (each cycle = one open/close). If you use your garage multiple times a day, your springs could fail within five to seven years. Rust can also shorten their lifespan.

Below, we’ll break down costs, safety concerns, and whether to tackle the job yourself or call a pro.

Safety Around Garage Door Torsion Springs

Garage door torsion springs are dangerous. They store enough tension to lift a 200-pound door, and if mishandled, they can cause serious injuries, including broken bones or even amputation.

Experienced professionals take extra precautions when replacing them. If you’re not 100% confident in your ability to handle high-tension springs, hire a professional door repairman or reputable company.

Why Do Garage Door Springs Break?

Garage door springs break because of wear and tear. Every time you open and close your garage door, the springs complete a cycle. Most standard springs are rated for 10,000 cycles. If you use your garage frequently, they may wear out in five to seven years.

Rust is another potential problem. It weakens the metal and increases the chance of breakage. If your springs are rusty, replacement is even more urgent. Applying a silicone-based lubricant every few months can help extend their lifespan.

Working with Older Winding Cones

Older garage door systems may have non-standard winding cones, which can be dangerous to work with. If a cone has more than 2 inches of play, hire a professional. Newer models have tighter tolerances to prevent spinning cones.

Crawford and McKee winding cones require a 5/8-inch bar. If it doesn’t fit, grind it down slightly rather than using a smaller 1/2-inch bar, which could slip.

BarCol, Raynor, and Overhead brands have inconsistent hole sizes, increasing the risk of loose cones.

Hiring a Professional

Garage door spring replacement is difficult and risky, and most homeowners hire a pro.

• Standard torsion springs cost $80 to $200 per pair.
• Extended lifespan springs last four times longer but cost twice as much.
• Professional installation ranges from $250 to $450, including parts and labor.
• Labor alone is typically $45 to $65.

For most homeowners, hiring a professional is the safest and smartest choice.

Replacing Torsion Springs by Yourself

Garage door designs have changed over time, but most modern systems follow standard designs, making DIY repairs easier. However, if your door has an older or unusual garage door setup, hire a professional. Some older systems have unique winding coils or non-standard parts, making replacement harder — and more hazardous.

Measuring the Torsion Spring

Torsion springs come in various sizes, so you’ll need to measure carefully. Order replacement springs based on overall length, the length of 20 coils, and the inside diameter.

Use a tape measure to check the full length of each spring, but don’t touch the coil while it’s under tension. If a spring is broken, loosen the set screws and slide the pieces together before measuring.

Preparation

Before you start, make sure the garage door is fully closed and that you disconneced the power. In newer doors, this involves simply unplugging a power cord. For older, hard-wired doors, you will need to flip your circuit breaker or remove the fuse. Once the power is off, you will need to set the trolley disconnect into the neutral position. The L-shaped drawbar arm will need to be manually disconnected on older doors.

Have the following tools on-hand:

• Adjustable wrench or socket set
• Protective eyewear
• 2 10-inch vice grips
• Portable lamp (if the garage is not well-lit)
• File
• Sturdy ladder
• 2 half-inch x 18-inch winding bars

Replacing the Torsion Spring on Overhead Doors

Most overhead garage doors have torsion springs on both sides, but some use a single spring or a different setup.

Don’t try to make this replacement if you have a low-headroom door or an unusual configuration. These require specialized techniques and are best handled by a professional.

Step 1: Determine the Left and Right Springs

Identify the left and right springs before installation:

• Stand each spring upright against the door.
• The left spring has a winding cone that faces left, and the right spring faces right.
• Many manufacturers color-code the cones: black = left, red = right.

Step 2: Mark the Torsion Shaft

Mark the torsion shaft to keep the door balanced:

• Use a marker or file to draw a line on the torsion shaft and each drum.
• If the cables have slipped off, rewrap them before marking.
• Don’t touch the shaft or drum while the spring is still wound. You can create a serious injury.

Step 3: Preparing the Winding Bar

Use a properly sized winding bar. Never substitute other tools. Other tips:

• You’ll need a 16-inch long winding bar. If you don’t have one, buy a 32-inch metal rod and have it cut in half at a hardware store.
• Insert the bar into the bottom hole of the winding cone and turn it slightly to check if the set screws are secure.
• Test for movement: If the bar has more than 2 inches of play, stop and call a professional. Less than 1.5 inches of play is ideal.
• Make sure the bar is fully inserted. You should hear it hit the torsion shaft. Mark the bar with electrical tape to check its position each time you change holes.

Step 4: Unwinding the Torsion Spring

Unwinding the torsion spring is dangerous. Keep a firm grip at all times.

• Insert a winding bar into the cone and hold it firmly. Always keep one bar inserted to prevent the spring from spinning out of control.
• Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the set screws, transferring the spring’s tension to the bar. Over-tightened screws may take a full turn or more to loosen.
• If the spring won’t unwind, it may be stuck because of rust or a bent torsion shaft. Try pulling down on the bar, or gently tap the cone with a hammer to free it.
• Once loose, turn the bar until it’s flush against the garage door. Insert the second bar into the next hole before removing the first. Continue this step until the spring is fully unwound.
• Repeat this process for the second spring if your garage door has two.
• Caution: If the cone suddenly slips, the bar can jerk downward with force. That’s you need to maintain a strong grip.

Step 5: Loosening the Drum and Torsion Assembly

Loosening the drum and torsion assembly prepares the springs for removal.

• Remove the bolts from the central cones. If your spring bracket is slotted, secure it with a vice grip or cable tie before continuing.
• Take out the bushing from the center cones but leave it on the shaft near the center bracket.
• Slide the torsion springs outward toward the cable drums. If the shaft is bent, smooth it with a file before continuing.
• Loosen the set screws on the cable drum so it turns freely, then remove the cable and slide the drum away from the bearing.
• Try pulling the shaft through the bearing. If it won’t budge, tap the headplate with a hammer to free it. Repeat on the other side.

Step 6: Inspecting the Assembly

Before installing new springs, inspect and prep the assembly.

• Straighten the bearing plate if it appears tilted.
• Check the anchoring bracket. If the lags are loose, replace them with larger ones.
• If the shaft end is damaged, smooth it with a file so the drum and spring can slide off easily.
• Lubricate the bearings with lubriplate grease or motor oil.
• Replace any worn bearings (especially if labeled ADH).
• Straighten the bearing plate if it appears tilted.

Step 7: Replacing the Drums and Cable

Replace the torsion spring, drums, and cable one side at a time.

• Remove the old spring and dispose of it safely.
• Slide the new spring onto the shaft. The larger stationary cone should go on first.
• Check the spring orientation:
  • Look for color markings on the winding cone (black = left, red = right).
  • The outer end of the spring’s wire should point upward.
• Reinstall the cable drum onto the shaft and insert the shaft into the bearing.
• Align the drum and shaft markings, then hand-tighten the set screws.
• Tighten the set screws another ¼ to ½ (add an extra ¼ turn for heavy wooden doors).
• Use needle-nose pliers to bend the cable end 90 degrees and insert it fully into the drum slot. Ensure the cable and stop are straight, not angled.
• Pull down on the drum to tighten the cable.
• Twist the shaft to further tighten the cable, then secure it with a vice grip against the garage header.
• Repeat for the other drum and cable.

Step 8: Securing the Stationary Cones

Secure the stationary cones to the center bracket.

• Don’t over-tighten. The cones should be secure but not too tight.
• Remove the cable tie or vice grip (if you have a slotted bracket).
• Lubricate the shaft at the bushing and check for any damage.
• Slide both springs to the center bracket and turn them so the spring wires’ ends point downward.
• Attach the bolts and hand-tighten the nuts until the cones sit flush with the bracket.

Step 9: Winding the Springs

Wind the torsion springs carefully and evenly.

• 8-foot doors require 34 quarter turns.
• Mark the shaft at the end of the winding cone. This mark should disappear inside the cone as you wind.
• Insert the winding bar into the bottom hole of the cone and turn it 90 degrees upward.
• Insert the second winding bar, remove the first, and turn the lower bar another 90 degrees.
  • Repeat this process until the spring is fully wound:
  • 7-foot doors require 30 quarter turns.

Step 10: Stretching the Springs

Stretch the springs and secure the set screws.

• Mark the shaft about ¼-inch away from the winding cone.
• Pull the winding bar up slightly toward the middle of the door.
• Tap the inserted bar just below the cone to gently nudge it toward the shaft mark.
• If the bar starts to slip, press it against the door, insert the second bar, and adjust.
• Once the cone reaches the mark, hand-tighten the set screws until they touch the shaft.
• Tighten the set screws another ¼ to ½ turn with a wrench.
• Test the tension by pulling down slightly on the bar. The door should lift slightly if tightened correctly. If not, tighten the screws another ¼ turn.

Step 11: Winding the other Spring and Testing the Door

Wind the second spring and test the door.

• Remove the vice grip from the shaft and place it on the vertical track, about 3 inches above a roller.
• Wind and stretch the second spring using the same method as the first.
• Insert a winding bar into the cone and remove the lower one.
• Slowly pull down on the bar. You should be able to lift the door slightly when it reaches the vice grip.
• If the door doesn’t move, adjust the bar until the door fully closes.
• If the door tries to lift the bar on its own, the spring is too tight or too strong.
• If the door stays down when you lift the bar lightly, the spring is properly wound and you can safely remove the bar.

Step 12: Final Checks

Perform a final check to ensure everything works properly.

• Open and close the garage door slowly. It should move smoothly and stay open, closed, or partially open without resistance.
• Check the door balance. If it feels heavy, uneven, or doesn’t stay in place, you may need to adjust the tension.
• Lubricate the springs with motor oil to prevent rust and reduce friction.

Additional Resources

Clopay Door manufactures of the EZ-Set Torsion Spring System, available at Home Depot. It has published a supplemental guide for DIY replacement to assist homeowners using their system.

DDM Garage Doors provides a comprehensive guide on measuring torsion springs.

Engineer Richard J. Kinch, PhD, provides an in-depth guide on torsion springs, how they work, how to replace them, and how to spot various garage door-related scams.